10/06/2012

Fashion Photographer Tutorials - Great For Portraiture, Weddings, Boudoir & Seniors

By Dan Feildman



Learning Photography With LearnDigitalPhotographyNow.com



I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a photo perfect in camera which means that I am not investing hours with every image. Most of my pictures have been captured on average 30 minutes.

A shot taken around mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To overcome this I placed my model in the shadows created by the actual branches of a large palm tree. I set up a sizable California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight highlighting soft warm light on the front of a model.

I took a light reading from my models face and photographed at shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set up to daytime.

This image has been shot in my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set from 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my own model to emphasize her arms and legs also therefore we had a great connection for creating great energy and leading.

Notice my personal lens/eye level is in the middle of the girl torso, this is important when firing wide angle and close to the subject to avoid distortion, for instance if you take to high up your versions head is going to be big and her legs may be like they are short like a hen and visa versa so its crucial that you get your eye/camera lens stage at the right just the height in order to avoid distortion,

I will often shoot from a lower angle, particularly when I am trying to emphasize the gap of a models legs for hosiery images.

To keep the sky as glowing blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the midday sun. This is how you continue the sea and heaven blue as well as making my personal models skin/tan look great an smooth by removing some of the particular specular reflections on her skin.

If I had been taking pictures facing much more to the east the skies and the ocean would have been far more burned out there..

When I began shooting digital I had a lot of difficulties because I attempted to shoot digital the same manner I shot film. Now when I am shooting, I will always under expose from the meter studying, this is done for a couple of reasons, to saturate shade as well as to make certain I am not necessarily loosing my high lighting. Obviously my personal images are going to be a little on the dark side however I can easily correct for this by using a little s curve inside Photoshop to start the particular retouching process.

I constantly shoot raw files and a little jpg, the reason why I will explain inside another Small Gem.

I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re graphic information and will bring about far better quality pictures).

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